Walk into Shapiro’s Delicatessen on any given Tuesday, and you’ll see the same scene that’s played out for 120 years. People lined up at the cafeteria counter, watching meat slicers transform whole briskets into mountains of corned beef. The smell of fresh rye bread baking in the back. Someone biting into a Reuben sandwich so tall it requires both hands and a solid plan of attack.
- Shapiro’s has been family-owned since 1905 when Russian immigrants Louis and Rebecca Shapiro opened their grocery on South Meridian Street
- The deli goes through 3,000 pounds of corned beef weekly at their downtown location alone, all hand-trimmed and cooked on-site
- Their famous Reuben features six ounces of house-made corned beef on fresh-baked rye bread with two slices of German Swiss cheese
From Pushcart to Indianapolis Institution
Louis and Rebecca Shapiro fled violence in Odessa, Ukraine around 1906. They’d planned to settle in Brooklyn like so many Jewish immigrants, but the Industrial Removal Office convinced them to try the Midwest instead. They landed in Indianapolis with $500 and a horse-drawn wagon, selling coffee and flour until they saved enough to open a grocery store.
The grocery stayed small until 1934, when Prohibition ended. The Shapiros started selling cold beer for a dime. People wanted something to eat with their drinks, so they added a few tables and started making sandwiches. That simple decision changed everything.
Four generations later, Brian Shapiro runs the operation his great-grandparents started. The business has survived a 1976 gas explosion next door, a 2003 fire that caused water damage throughout the building, and countless economic ups and downs. Through it all, they’ve stuck to Louis Shapiro’s original philosophy. Cook good food. Serve big portions. Keep prices fair. People will show up.
What Makes This Reuben Different
Most delis buy pre-cooked corned beef in vacuum-sealed bags. Shapiro’s starts with whole briskets from Vienna Beef in Chicago. They cure each one with their own spice blend, cook it low and slow, then slice it fresh to order. The difference shows up in every bite.
The rye bread comes from their own bakery upstairs. They bake it fresh every morning, which explains why the bread stays crisp even under the weight of six ounces of meat. Try finding another deli sandwich where the bread doesn’t turn to mush halfway through.
Here’s how they build it. Two slices of German Swiss cheese on the bottom. Then the corned beef, piled high and still warm. A thick layer of either sauerkraut or their house-made coleslaw (both versions have loyal fans). A generous spread of Russian dressing. Another slice of Swiss on top. The whole thing gets grilled until the bread turns golden and the cheese melts into the meat.
The result weighs about a pound. Most people split one sandwich between two meals. Some bring friends and share. A few stubborn souls try to finish it in one sitting, usually regretting that decision about three-quarters of the way through.
The Cafeteria Line Philosophy
Shapiro’s kept the cafeteria-style service from the 1930s. You grab a tray, join the line, and watch your food get made right in front of you. No waiters. No table service. No hiding what goes into your meal.
Business executives stand next to construction workers. Tourists wait behind people whose grandparents ate here. Everyone gets the same treatment, the same portions, the same quality. The setup works because the food needs no apologies.
The line moves fast even during lunch rush. The staff knows what they’re doing. They’ve been slicing meat and building sandwiches the same way for decades. Some of them have worked there for 20 or 30 years, which tells you something about the place.
Why It Still Matters
Food trends come and go. Restaurants chase Instagram likes and viral moments. Meanwhile, Shapiro’s keeps doing what it’s always done. Fresh ingredients. Big portions. Fair prices. No shortcuts.
They still get their beans from NK Hurst, a relationship that started in 1938. The corned beef still comes from the same Chicago supplier Louis Shapiro used back in the early 1900s. They still wake up at 3 a.m. to start cooking. They still believe that if you make good food and treat people right, they’ll keep coming back.
Indianapolis has changed a lot since 1905. The neighborhood around Shapiro’s has transformed multiple times. The south side Jewish community that once filled these streets has mostly moved on. But people still line up for that Reuben, because some things are worth keeping exactly as they are.
Your Turn to Try Indy’s Best Reuben
Shapiro’s sits at 808 South Meridian Street in downtown Indianapolis, a few blocks south of Lucas Oil Stadium. They open at 10 a.m. weekdays, 9 a.m. on weekends. Show up hungry. Bring cash or card. Don’t fill up on dessert first, even though the strawberry cheesecake looks like it could solve all your problems.
Order the traditional Reuben. Watch them build it at the counter. Find a seat in the bright, no-frills dining room. Take that first bite when the bread is still warm and crispy. Then you’ll understand why people drive hours for this sandwich, why locals bring every out-of-town visitor here, why this place has lasted 120 years without changing its recipe.
Some traditions earn their staying power one sandwich at a time. Shapiro’s proves it every single day.
